Устройство корпуса мотора Нижняя часть обтекателя. Устройство механизма впуска Коллектор и компоненты. Устройство рулевого управления Компоненты Набор линков. Устройство рулевого управления Компоненты Румпель. Пожалуй, это лучший из моторов что у меня были. Похвалю данный мотор за выдающийся уровень производительности и способность долгое время ездить на высоких оборотах, и при этом можно не опасаться за перегрев. С таким мотором можно плавать по мелководью или засоренной воде. Обслуживание не из дешевых. Радует, что хотя бы некоторые работы можно выполнить самому — например, поменять расходные материалы. Движок куплен в году на замену Джонсону на 3,5 сил. Огорчает тот факт, что такие моторы в России можно купить только на вторичке. Но с другой стороны, мне повезло, так как двигатель был в офигенном состоянии, почти как новый. Ни одной царапинки и потертости, и работает как и должен работать. За полтора года пользования ощутил все достоинства мотора. Solution is replace the line and use new small hose clamps on it. The fuel line from the tank to the engine has disconnect fittings on each end, Do you have it connected properly? There will be a large arrow on the primer bulb, this points to direction of the motor. Both of these quick connectors have neoprene O-Rings inside the connector where it slips over the fuel line studs on the tank and motor. These O rings in the fittings can be damaged, leaking causing a vacuum leak up to the motor. Solution is to remove and replace the O rings, however there are 3 major manufacturers of these quick connectors and they all use different O-Rings, along with the fact that most are not identified by any manufactures name maybe a code number that means nothing to you or me.
Pull the fuel line off the carburetor and with the tank connected to the engine and pull the engine through. Fuel should come out of the line that went to the carburetor, indicating a good pump. If you are using an aftermarket tank, we know you are leaving the tank vent open, right? Or are you using the right fuel line? Yamaha connectors look the same as OMC, but the fuel stud is larger, creating a air leak. Before we get real carried away here, was the last gasoline used the ethanol type? Another thing, you should consider is finding out a bit about the motor that you are staring at BEFORE you start unbolting things. Number one would be, are any spare parts available?? If not, you may be spinning your wheels, get it partly repaired only to find further needed parts are not available and now you have both time and money invested on scrap iron. A thing many do not realize is that some outboard motor manufacturers may have a higher grade and a lower grade line of motors. The lower grade may be the ones with fewer spare parts availability. The distinction can be only paint, electronics or fuel injection, with most of the other parts the same as corresponding motors. The understanding was that they were actually pretty good, though not really hot performers but performed fine as a second tier, "cheapout" image for the owners. This situation spooked Yamaha and OMC enough that they downgraded their own lines, removing oil injection and other items, so they, too, would have a cheaper second tier line. Yamaha had a different model designation for theirs also. Take a look at the overall motor, sometimes scratched paint can be deceptive, but if the owner had no pride in ownership even as to scratches, look farther. Pull the upper cowling off.
Look underneath it for signs of oily residue. If the rings are bad, you very likely will see an oily film on the inside, especially near the carburetor intake as shown in the photo below. Has the fuel line rubber bulb became hardened over time to the point it is hard to squeeze? If so, you will need a new fuel line assembly. Beware of fuel tanks setting out in the rainy weather. Are there any little kids around, if so check inside the fuel tank for rocks, sticks and mud. With the shifting lever in neutral, give the twist grip handle a twist it, if there is a lot of slop here, you may not be able to maintain a throttle position setting without holding onto the handle all the time. With the older OMC motors from 74 to 85 that utilize the gearing on the throttle shaft, this takes a lot of time to cut plastic shims and to fit them to get proper tension if everything is worn. The 86 to OMC cable throttle type are not usually prone to this problem. You might find a gem that looks bad, but only needs spark plugs, clean fuel, but looks ragged, but the odds are not good in a case like this. Oily residue on the inside of the upper cowling should be a clue to something not exactly right. Evidence of an inoperative water pump impeller, look at the discoloration burned paint of the overheated head.
If they have not been recently replaced, are they black and oily or just a gray color? They will usually be slightly oily and possibly fouled if the motor is used mostly for trolling may not get warm enough to totally do good combustion since this motor uses an oil mix in the gasoline. If it is dry and a gray color, that is good. Spark plugs need to be gapped properly. Most are just fine out of the box, but in troubleshooting, check them first. I got caught in this once, guy brought a motor in, it ran at a idle fine, but speed it up to about mid throttle it would lope, miss-then restart repeatedly. The plugs were new so I did not look at them, but after tearing the carburetor apart 3 times, I finally found the plugs were gapped at about. You can clean them, the best is with a sandblaster. Then you can have a new set, clean the others for spares. You might consider vacuum packing them if for longer dry storage if you plan on keeping them on the boat. This will assure you that they are clean and dry when you to need to use them, especially if you are near saltwater. This a motor running, but lack of power is usually the result of only running on one cylinder. It is suggested to start it up, bring it to a fast idle and with a pair of insulated pliers, pull one spark plug boot at a time. The motor should be able to run on only one cylinder, so if you pull a plug and the motor dies, you know that the other cylinder was never firing or running was weak. Here for the OMC motors, I will make a distinction between magneto ignition points, condenser ignition and electronic ignition in relationship to spark plug types. It has been found on these pre s that by switching to NGK B6HS spark plugs and in the next higher heat range the fouled plugs go away and the engine runs better. OMC finally got this right when they went with Capacitor Discharge electronic ignition. If your spark plugs repeatedly foul you could have a combination of things happening. Check to see if the thermostat is still there, some people pull them out. If the thermostat is missing, and you are using it mostly for trolling in cooler climates, the motor is not getting hot enough for proper combustion. It might be a good idea to run Sea Foam thru it to decarb the piston and rings. Then for some reason, the recommended Champions plugs may foul out with very limited usage on the magneto ignition system. Normal gap settings are. Use of non-inductive resistor type plugs on these motors can cause misfire and poor performance. You may be able to check for spark, by pulling the spark plug from the head, and reinserting it in the plug boot, then ground it, holding the metal plug body against some metal part of the motor , while pulling the starter rope. Here, you need to have made a good connection of the spark plug to the motor, somewhere where the paint is not insulating your connection. However this spark may be hard to see if you are alone and in bright daylight plus having to pull the rope yourself AND look for the spark while the motor happens to be moving slightly.
Have both spark plugs out also helps lower the compression. Here is where you may need the help of the wife or a fishing buddy.
These testers are cheap and readily available from automotive stores. Another thing I would look at is the flywheel key sheared or semi-sheared? Here you can get spark, but it may not be timed correctly because the flywheel may have slightly slipped on the crankshaft, changing the spark timing. If everything else looks good, and it will not fire, this is the first and simplest thing to look at. If the motor is a magneto style ignition and everything looks OK, but will not start, look at the points breaker cam on the crankshaft. There should be a word on the top of this cam that says TOP. If you can not see this, maybe someone installed it upside down, which will surely effect the timing. These cams just slide onto the upper end of the crankshaft with the flywheel key being used for the proper alignment. However on the older motors, this word TOP may not be there, if so then most of us use the crankshaft key as the set location as it is usually located at the thickest part of the cam. Grind a tapered point of sorts on one end of each bolt. This tapered end goes up or the one that the spark will jump to the aluminum plate from. Thread one nut on the bolt push it thru the hole, place another nut on top, then when you get the distance you want, tighten the lower nut. Take an aluminum sheet and drill one hole in the center that will be used to attach the plate and the ground wire. Cut off the bolt head, deburr it so it will slide into the spark plug boot. You may want to use a black electricians tape or dark paper glued to the back side at the intended arc point so you can see the arc jump better. This unit has a threaded rod adjustment that has a turned end to match a spark plug outer end, a spring clamp that can be attached to a wire or small bolt head for a ground. This rod can be adjusted to what ever your heart desires. The body is made of a plastic so it does not short things out. Well this may be true with a car or a outboard that has electric start, but for a person to try to use a rope start, watch the gap at the same time, not very easy. In use of the home made tester, pull the spark plug boots, position them on the 2 protruding bolt ends, clamp the alligator clamp onto an exposed bolt head. Pull the starter rope as if you were trying to start the motor. If it only jumps on one then you have a coil bad or possibly a bad ground connection at that coil, or even inside one of the rubber connectors or the spark plug boot.
Car Quest tester STL Spark alone does not do any good if you have a scored cylinder or bad rings creating low compression that also leads to fouled spark plugs. Also if you get intermittent spark or only firing on one cylinder, you may have a bad connection at the boot end where the boot goes over the spark plug. In the photo below the insulation has been stripped off showing the arcing from the contact point to the wire. A little may be normal, but once it gets this bad, you loose conductibility. If you have done most of your suspected repairs and still no fire when you pull the starter rope, you may try pulling the starter rope in the dark of night, as any leakage or jumping of spark will show up way better in the dark. Another thing, rather rare occurrence, but it is possible that your kill button may be defective and grounding out internally. This would be more likely to happen on the and later motors using the "Man Overboard kill type switch" that uses the lanyard, because there is a internal spring pushing the button out. If something plastic internally broke, the button my still be out, but shorted out internally. For a test for this, pull the connector for the black with a yellow striped wire and disconnect this wire. This may also be hard to trace this wire down on the post 93 models because of the wiring harness inside the tiller handle and being buried under and around the powerhead. This would probably not be the case with the earlier pre kill buttons that are on the front cowling. If the motor is between a to , the ignition system is the older points and condenser type. These coils and condensers can get weak over time, may have spark, but a yellow instead of the hotter blue. Or the motor may start, run for a few minutes, then die. What may be happening is that internally in the condenser which is simply thin aluminum strips wrapped with waxed paper between them into a coil that is encapsulate into a metal container the waxed paper may be slightly deteriorated, when the energy is created inside the canister, the aluminum expands slightly, where the paper is thin, will short out.
After the aluminum strip cools, and pulls back the motor may restart. If this is the case you may need to replace the condensers, and possibly the points as if the condensers are failing, they put lots of undue burning on the points, but the coils hardly ever go bad unless the outer insulation cranks so bad that they arc out to the base.
Another thing that can happen on this style of ignition is that if the individual coils may be getting weak, do give off a spark to ground, but with everything together, may not have enough juice to fire the spark plug UNDER compression. This however is just a patch and not the cure to the problem as it will also make the timing off. In the photo below you will see the blue insulation worn off one of the points wires. The gray color at the point of the arrow is the wire itself. This motor ran fine until the wire insulation got worm through, then it ran only on one cylinder. Rotate the crankshaft so that the 1 piston is at Top Dead Center. This can be verified by pulling 1 TOP spark plug, by using a flashlight, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you can see the piston come up, go slowly, backtrack just after it starts down. The word TOP on the timing cam should be at or near the location of the points rub bar. I have seen some not quite there and nearer the SET position. You can not do much about this however. Without changing the twist grip location, move the crankshaft to the SET position. Set the 1 points on the RH side of the motor with a feeler gage at. The points surface should be free of oxidation, not have corrosion. If the points are set off by. So it is important to get both set of points set as close to the prescribed setting as possible. One thing that you may run into on the older motor replacement points, the felt for the cam oiler can be too long in some sets of points. If it extends under the rubbing block area, this can hold the points open. Some of the older cams have a spot imprinted that says "top" while others usually later motors says "set". The wires need to be isolated from the frame by the fiber washers in there. If the points do not look corroded or pitted, take a piece of business card with some rubbing alcohol or electrical contact cleaner and run it through the points once or twice. If you have replaced the condensers and it refuses to spark, you may have gotten a couple of bad condensers. Try your original ones just for giggles. Move the flywheel clockwise by hand and look for any jumping of the plate. Pull the starter rope, check to see if when the flywheel is rotating that the timing plate moves sideways when the flywheel is rotating. If it can wobble or move laterally, it WILL change the point gap! Мотор у меня недавно, взял его для души, уж больно нравится. Опции темы Версия для печати. Поиск в этой теме Расширенный поиск. Турниры по Спортивной ловле форели. Правила и Положения по Спортивным секциям Русфишинга. Выезды на которые ведётся запись! Архангельская область, включая НАО. Моря России и Зарубежья. Экипировка и Снаряжение рыбака. Эхолоты, GPS, Радиостанции и другое оборудование.
Ловля на открытой воде. Ловля на классическую Донку. Ловля на мормышку, черти, козы, ведьмы Также двигатели использует водная полиция Москвы. В настоящее время выпуск лодочных моторов данной марки прекращен, поскольку Johnson была поглощена компанией BRP производитель агрегатов Evinrude. Сейчас дилеры распродают остатки моторов Джонсон. В будущем бренд может вернуться на рынок с новыми продуктами.
Модель с мощностью в 5 л. Ей присущи традиционные качества, свойственные агрегатам Джонсон. Она надежна, проста в эксплуатации и обслуживании и неприхотлива к топливу. Для лодочников, которым важно сочетание мобильности с высокой мощностью, модель Джонсон 5 будет идеальным вариантом. Улучшенные параметры мотора сделают плавание максимально комфортным и захватывающим. Управление двигателем осуществляется посредством удобного румпеля, обеспечивающего дополнительный комфорт и маневренность. Специальная конструкция, защищающая агрегат от столкновения с подводными препятствиями, делает безопасным движение по мелководью. Поставьте галочку,если хотите получать на почту уведомления о новых комментариях в этой теме. Судоремонтная мастерская Пиранья Как отремонтировать надувную лодку из ПВХ ,надувной матрас и подвесной лодочный мотор. I suspect that since it took many fishing trips over a period of 6 months, thinking I had found the problem after each time, that one output wire or diode from the powerpack had become internally partially shorted out because of the loose ground under the one coil. The Johnson sat for 3 years, but would not produce any spark when tried to start it then. This motor appeared to be running fine when it was removed from the boat. Testing was done and the powerpack was bad. I replaced the powerpack. I then traded it off to a friend who lived near the beach, only to have it die on the new owner. No spark on either plug. When I got the motor back it was really hot weather, I let it set for a while as I loaned him a different motor. From all indications it pointed to the new powerpack failing. Check the bottom plug for spark, it was OK. Maybe the could were not being grounded properly, so when I pulled them off this model had both coils made together as a dually unit. What I found was the back side of the coil where it was sealed around the hard rubber housing, that the rubberish sealing had came loose and even had evidence of something being corroded inside, forcing the sealant out and away from the body. My guess was that in his high salt air moisture environment that there was just enough moisture inside to short things out. For those of you who use a remote control and therefore a electric choke, this electrical diagram for the electric starter is not shown, apparently the factory considers this an alteration of sorts. All I can say is that the electric choke is simply a wire from the switch, relaying power to the choke solenoid. If that is OK then check that the solenoid is grounded. The thumbnail photos below are for the OMC 9. Electrical diagram for manual starter motor.
Electrical diagram for electric starter motor. Click on the above thumbnails for larger picture. For remote controls that use a key type ignition switch, the letters on the rear of this switch being M and possibly two of these M lugs used for the kill circuit, will as above, have either both black or a black and a black with yellow stripe.